[Chicago, IL] Chicago brings back some powerful food memories me. I spent the better part of three years traveling across the country performing food and sanitation inspections for the hospitality business, and it seemed that no matter where I went, the next stop was always Chicago. I regret to say that with the exception of a party at Rick Tramonto’s Tru, one visit to see Oprah, and one vague memory of a brewery crawl, I haven’t been in town much over the past few years. However, that all changed a few weeks ago. Visiting friends from Toronto came in on vacation and they wanted to meet in Chicago. Fortunately, I was able to adjust my schedule and spent nine food filled days in the windy city.

Prior to this visit I never heard of Cibo Matto and I certainly didn’t select the restaurant. Actually, I’m almost embarrased to say that the first thing that came to mind was the hipster Japanese girl band, Cibo Matto (damn, did I just age myself???).

Cibo Matto is Italian for crazy food. An unusual name, for either a band or a restaurant. The one thing it had going against it was that it was located inside of a hotel. I’m not sure why, but it appears as though many of the good restaurants in Chicago are located inside hotels. But… I liked the band, so I thought I’d give the restaurant a go. Looking back, it was a wise move.

My first surprise was how sleek and modern, but refreshing and lively, the interior was. Which is to be expected given the boutique hotel and all; but not expected given the nature of its menu. Or I should say first glance at the menu. We all looked at the antipasti options and our party of six agreed to share ricotta di bufala, burrata, a heavenly fior di latte (cows milk mozzarella, heirloom apples, red onion, balsasmic and toasted hazelnuts), and finally grilled octopus. All of which were served to perfection. We then moved onto the chef’s version of spaghetti alla chitarra (squid ink pasta, crab, tomatoes and serrano chilies), orecchiette (with lamb ragu and ricotta di bufala), a decidedly modern saffron risotto (made with uni butter, parsley pesto and fried calamari), razza (a bone-in skate wing picatta with capers, lemons and brussel sprouts), and the chef’s translation of grilled tonno (with cranberry beans, a Cerignola relish and pickled relish).

With the exception of the tonno, we all thoroughly enjoyed everything delivered to our table. In fact, one member of our party enjoyed the orecchiete so much, she ordered it as her main dish as well. When it came to dessert we mostly stuck to libations, but we couldn’t pass on the fig mascarpone napoleon (layered perfectly and served with a balsamic reduction, toasted hazelnuts and a delightfully surprising orange basil sorbetto), and the testun al barolo (a firm Italian cheese, which is usually aged for a minimum of five months at the dairy cellars and then transferred to a local cantina - where for two more months it is soaked in Barolo).

At the helm of this establishment is Chef Todd Stein. The chef’s decision to make the menu contemporary with the utilization of old world techniques and ingredients to deliver his interpretations - proves to be quite satisfying. We all felt the chef’s dishes show a sophisticated palate with inspirational flavor and ingredient combinations.

The entree prices are at par with this type of establishment (high but not over the top - our entrees averaged at about $25.00 per person), and although the anitpasti was delicious, some of the presentations and prices left us wanting more.

Final Notes: Be forewarned that the decibel level in the dining room was quite high. Would we return - yes, but not alone and not for a table for two - at least not on a Friday or Saturday night.

The Details

Restaurant: Cibo Matto
Address: 201 North State St. (in The Loop), Chicago, IL 60601
Telephone: (312) 239-9500
Website: http://cibomatto.therestaurantsatthewit.com/

by Fabrizio Marchesini